Exploring cities

It was our first day on a field trip to Sultanpur Lodhi, India. We only knew that it was that it was town with significant religious associations and we went with the intention to do a historic research that helps guide the master plan proposal for the area. The logical step would have been to equip ourselves with a map and explore the areas of historic relevance magnified on various cartoon like tourist maps. But that was the only thing we weren’t going to do.

We left our room, which was in the local free temple and set on a journey to experience the town. Without a map for direction or a specific destination, we went on a leisurely stroll. While walking down the road a distant view of a very narrow street enticed us. We gave into every such temptation of inviting narrow winding streets, broken mosque dome, ruins of house, hens fighting in a courtyard or music playing in shops. We clearly looked like we were not from this part of the town and the curiosity reflected in our eyes was reciprocated by the local folks enthusiasm. This is an essential nature of humankind, as curiosity always takes the better of them. And this was true for the people of Sultanpur and as well as us. We were hesitatingly asked the purpose of our visit and soon enough we were invited to a cup of tea. Over such instances of tea, milk, buttermilk or cane juice we were told the stories of their life, their struggles, their house, their beliefs, their children and their plans for future. By the time we took leave, we were sometimes inquired about our marital status in case we wanted them to look for a suitable match. In a day or two we got to know the town, the people , the buildings, the temples and mosques that stood the test of time and those that did not.

We walked into any house that took our fancy, for its interesting lintel detail or an intriguing sign board and we came out with the most interesting revelation. They always had an important place in history, an interesting story and were an integral part of the town. The pictures we took and sketches’ we made all had a beautiful story behind them. One of our colleagues fell in love with a girl in the red house, who peeked out and waved to him in a way that took his heart. I unfortunately got bit by a dog on the bendy street that leads to the temple. And soon everyone had their own interesting stories or memories, in the narrow streets, school courtyard, street square or the juice shop. We knew our way around, had our favorite shops and new friends. We were now a part of the town’s history and its story.

Then we found a map, walked down the streets and marked on the map the town we had got to know. We took photographs with the people who lived there, the hens that fought and bought the folk music we had come to enjoy. Every house, every street had a story, of our engagements with it and that told to us by the elders of the house. The entire town was mapped into our minds, and as we walked it we marked our associations with it on the map no matter how trivial they seemed. Such instances weaved together our story of the city and its history.

This is how I have come to prefer to experience a new place or city. And I am guilty of the doing the same in London. Since it was my first experience of foreign city, I kept my distance from all the well known places. Not because it breaks my silent code or rule but because it is always disappointing to go to a place that features on the list of things to do and never understand the point of it. The Piccadilly Circus, Trafalgar square or china town are not meant to be destinations, rather their value is in their unexpected discovery while on another journey. I cannot share the joy of finding the most eccentric café with a vintage bazaar, live band performance, bar and café all in one space in the most unassuming part of Hackney. London is full of such treasures that can never be on a list of things to do but is discovered when one journeys into the town aimlessly. Walking without a destination, getting to know the people who offer their reassuring smiles (even though they are few in numbers) and occasionally stumbling upon an important artifact of human history is a very personal and meaningful way of engaging with the city.